What Size Anchor Do I Need? Boat Anchor Buying Guide by Bottom and Boat Size
Choose the right boat anchor: fluke vs plow vs scoop by bottom type, anchor weight by boat length, chain and nylon rode, 7:1 scope and why anchors drag.…
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Boat Buying Guides
Straight answers on choosing, sizing and installing marine gear, written to help you buy the right part the first time.
Marine Hose and Clamp Buying Guide: Fuel, Sanitation, Bilge and Exhaust
Use the hose made for the job: USCG Type A1 fuel hose for fuel feed lines, odor-resistant sanitation hose for heads and holding tanks, wet exhaust hose for…
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Bilge Blower Buying Guide: Sizing, Installing and the 4 Minute Rule
If your boat has a gasoline inboard or sterndrive in an enclosed engine compartment, you need an ignition-protected bilge blower, and you must run it for at least…
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Thru-Hull Fitting Buying Guide: Bronze vs Plastic, Seacocks and Safe Installs
Below or near the waterline, use a bronze or glass-reinforced composite (Marelon) thru-hull paired with a proper quarter-turn seacock you can close in seconds. Plain plastic thru-hulls are…
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Bilge Pump Buying Guide: What Size You Need, Auto vs Manual and Real GPH
Choose an automatic bilge pump sized for your boat (roughly 500 to 1,100 GPH under 18 feet, 1,100 to 2,000 GPH for 18 to 24 feet, 2,000 GPH…
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Raw Water Strainer Buying Guide: Sizing, Mounting and Keeping Your Engine Cool
Pick a raw water strainer with ports at least as large as the hose and seacock it connects to, so it never restricts flow. Mount it between the…
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Fuel Filter and Water Separator Buying Guide: Micron, Flow and Maintenance
Put a water separating fuel filter between your tank and engine, rated for more flow than your engine burns at wide open throttle. For gasoline outboards, most engine…
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Water Pump Impeller Buying Guide: How to Match, Replace and Avoid Overheating
Buy the impeller by your pump's exact part number, not by looks. Blade count, diameter, width and the drive type (spline, flat, key or pin) all have to…
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Marine Anode Buying Guide: Zinc vs Aluminum vs Magnesium and When to Replace
Match the anode metal to your water. Zinc for saltwater, aluminum for salt or brackish water, magnesium for freshwater only. Replace any anode when it is about half…
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Antifouling Bottom Paint Buying Guide: Ablative vs Hard and Do You Even Need It
If your boat lives in the water, pick an ablative (self-polishing) bottom paint for most uses. It wears away slowly, keeps exposing fresh biocide, and does not build…
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Boat Cleat Buying Guide: What Size Cleat You Need and How to Mount It
Size a boat cleat at roughly 1 inch of cleat length for every 1/16 inch of line diameter, so 3/8 inch dock line wants a 6 inch cleat…
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Anchor Rode and Chain Buying Guide: How Much Chain and Rope You Need
Most recreational boats should use a rope-chain rode: a length of galvanized chain at the anchor (a common rule is about 1 foot of chain per foot of…
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Anchor Windlass Buying Guide: Size, Style and Gypsy Matching
Choose a windlass with a pulling power of at least 3 times the combined weight of your anchor and all of your rode, and size up for heavy…
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Deck Plate and Access Hatch Buying Guide: Sizes, Styles and Sealing
Use a deck plate (4 to 8 inch round, screw-out, quarter-turn or pry-out) for small access to wiring, hoses, fittings and fuel senders, and an access hatch for…
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Marine Latch and Hinge Buying Guide: Compression, Slam and Flush Latches
Choose 316 stainless steel or marine-grade nylon latches and hinges so they don't rust or seize. Match the latch to the job: a compression latch to pull a…
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Boat Grab Handle and Rail Buying Guide: Materials, Placement and Mounting
Put grab handles where people actually reach when the boat moves: at the helm, beside steps and ladders, along the cabin top and at the boarding point. Use…
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Boat Cup Holder and Organizer Buying Guide: Flush, Rail and Combo
For cup holders, choose flush mount for a clean built-in look (needs a cutout), clamp-on rail mount to add holders anywhere without drilling, and combo rod and cup…
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Boat Flooring Buying Guide: EVA Foam, Vinyl or Carpet
For most boats, closed-cell EVA foam traction pads (the SeaDek style) are the best upgrade: excellent grip wet or dry, soft under your feet all day, cooler than…
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T-Top and Hardtop Accessory Buying Guide: Rod Holders, Lights and More
Start by measuring the outside diameter (O.D.) of your T-top tubing, because almost every clamp-on rod holder, light bracket and accessory is sized to a specific tube or…
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Boat Horn Buying Guide: Requirements, Electric vs Air, and How Loud
Every boat needs a way to make an efficient sound signal. Under the U.S. Navigation Rules, boats 12 meters (39.4 ft) and longer must carry a whistle (horn),…
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Boat Windshield Wiper Buying Guide: Motors, Arms and Blades That Fit
Buy a wiper as a matched system: a sealed marine wiper motor with the right shaft length for your windshield thickness, the right sweep angle for your glass,…
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Trim Tab Buying Guide: What Size, Electric vs. Hydraulic, and How to Use Them
Trim tabs mount on the bottom corners of the transom and help your boat get on plane faster, ride level side to side, and cut through chop more…
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Tilt and Trim Motor Buying Guide: Diagnose the Problem and Find the Right Motor
Before buying a tilt and trim motor, confirm the motor is actually the problem. If you hear a click but nothing moves, suspect a relay or wiring. If…
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Jack Plate Buying Guide: Hydraulic vs. Manual and How Much Setback
A jack plate moves your outboard back (setback) and lets you raise it so less of the lower unit drags in the water. Choose hydraulic if you want…
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